标题： 揭示海洋风浪中的波-波共振相互作用 显示英文标题

标题： Revealing wave-wave resonant interactions in ocean wind waves

摘要： 海洋风浪是地球物理流体系统中复杂动力学的基本表现，其特征在于色散和非线性之间的丰富相互作用。 尽管线性波理论提供了波运动的一阶描述，但现实世界中的海洋环境由非线性相互作用所主导，这些相互作用负责不同长度波之间的能量转移。 O. Phillips、K. Hasselmann 和 V. Zakharov 在 1960 年代的开创性研究引入了这样一个概念：四波共振相互作用是海洋表面波场中波分量之间能量转移的主要机制。 尽管这些共振相互作用的存在和效率已在受控的确定性波浪水池实验中得到证明，但在真实海洋中，大量随机波相互作用的情况下，它们的直接识别仍然难以实现。 在这里，我们使用一种能够同时测量空间和时间上的表面高度的立体系统，提供了海洋风浪中共振相互作用的实验证据。 我们的数据不仅再现了 Phillips 所预测的著名八字形图案，还揭示了一种与理论预测非常接近的不同共振配置的连续体。 这些发现支持了第三代海洋波浪模型的有效性，增强了它们准确捕捉海洋中波浪动力学的能力。 显示英文摘要

摘要： Ocean wind waves are a fundamental manifestation of complex dynamics in geophysical fluid systems, characterized by a rich interplay between dispersion and nonlinearity. While linear wave theory provides a first-order description of wave motion, real-world oceanic environments are governed by nonlinear interactions that are responsible for a transfer of energy between waves of different lengths. The pioneering research by O. Phillips, K. Hasselmann, and V. Zakharov in the 1960s introduced the concept that four-wave resonant interactions serve as the primary mechanism for energy transfers among wave components in oceanic surface wave fields. Although the presence and efficiency of these resonant interactions have been demonstrated in controlled determinist wave tank experiments, their direct identification in the real ocean, where a large number of random waves interact, has remained elusive. Here, using a stereoscopic system that enables the measurement of surface elevation in both space and time, we provide experimental evidence of resonant interactions in ocean wind waves. Our data not only reproduce the well-known figure-eight pattern predicted by Phillips, but also reveal a continuum of different resonant configurations that closely match the theoretical predictions. These findings support the validity of third-generation ocean wave models, strengthening their ability to accurately capture wave dynamics in the ocean